Looking for repair help Part II

After retrieving the shipping container from UPS this evening and removed the contents from the box. I believe all the parts of my shipment damaged AZL SP GS4 Daylight are present and accounted for! I cleaned all the styrofoam parts and pieces from the chassie and running gear and inspected the running gear, side rods, and etc and nothing appears to be bent or out of place. I believe all the rods are connected as intended.
After studying the loose parts I decided to try my luck at doing the repair myself. I was able to reassemble the front bogie and install it back into the loco on the end of its connecting rod.

Now I have a few questions:

1. The front truck assembly on the tender "snapped" in to place on the exposed stud with a small amount of pressure and seems to swivel free and happy to remain there. Is this all that holds that truck in place?

2. I have removed the draw bar from between the loco and tender that was severely bent and was able to straighten/flatten it with all holes still in tact. Is this bar ment to be flat or is there a vertical offset between the loco and tender?

3. There are 2 wires between the loco and tender. One is still intact and the other is broken and stripped bare for about a 1/4". I assume these wires are used to provide additional current pickup from the track through the tender. I am not quite clear how this works since I see no brushes or wires connected to the tender trucks? How does this connect the track current to the loco?

4. Where can I apply current to the loco on the bench to determine if the motor and rods are all functioning properly before proceeding with the repair of the tender wiring?

5. If I can not expose enough wire to render a soldered repair on the wiring between the loco and tender, what am I likely to encounter by removing the bottom of the tender and soldering a new wire from the source?

6. How concerned do I need to be about the heat generated from making soldered connections? In other words do I need to place heat sinks or take any extraordinary measures to protect any extremely heat sensitive parts?

Thanks in advance for all and any help and advise
Rick

Rick,
While I don't have the AZL unit, I would like to comment on your #6. Being an electronics type, I consider any soldering job on Z scale to be temperature and static sensitive and always use heat sinks and grounding straps. It may not be necessary, but I figure the extra 30 seconds it takes worth the possible regrets, particularly with something as valuable as the GS4.

Mark

First, Thanks to Rob at ztrack and Terry at needtrains.com for all their support and encouragement! Also Mark with your good advise on soldering. Thanks to all of you my AZL GS4 lives!! It runs on my small piece of test track, now I am waiting to give it a good run on my new Rokuhan track. (Should be here later this week, Thanks Terry).
The disassembly went rather smooth. Once the shell was removed (one long screw up in front and two small screws from the back just under the cab and four small screws under the tender) it became clear that the broken wire would need replacement.

Shell off, new wiring installed.



One of the most difficult tasks was finding the fine replacement wire. Purchased here www.traintekllc.com


Ooops! Have to install the loco shell BEFORE soldering connections to the tender...


Repaired drawbar and wiring.


Restored to operating condition.



I must say this project was not without its challenges. Took about 10 hours working under a magnifying lamp and using small screwdrivers and tweezers. It was well worth it to see it run again.

Rick

Rick, I'm glad to see you managed to save this fine engine and I hope you will get a lot of enjoyment from seeing it run again

Rick, this is great news! I wasn't sure it would be possible based on the condition. I am so happy it is back amongst the living. Good find on the wire. This would be a good one for the parts box.

Rob